Trip
17 Oct
17 October – 15 November 2026
Kathmandu, Nepal · 17 October – 15 November 2026 · 30 days
Tika to Tihar
दशैंदेखि तिहारसम्म
This year both of Nepal's biggest festivals fall inside one month, and I'll be in Kathmandu for both, as I was last year. Every day has a plan, a note on the customs you'd see in the city, photos from 2025 and, from 17 October, my diary.
Live
Local time and weatherRight now in Kathmandu
Kathmandu time
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UTC+5:45
Nepal is one of the few places on a 45-minute offset.
Weather
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Sun
- Sunrise
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- Sunset
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Kartik days are short and clear.
First day
Open day →Arrival on Fulpati
- MorningLand at Tribhuvan airport. Check in and get a local SIM and cash (ATMs can run dry during Dashain).
- AfternoonGo to Tundikhel and Hanuman Dhoka for the Fulpati procession.
- EveningWalk through Asan and Indra Chowk to see the old town's shrines lit for Navaratri.
Next festival days
All festivals →The month at a glance
Thirty days, four seasons
October Ashwin – Kartik 2083
DashainBetween the festivalsTiharChhath & farewellFestival dayToday in Kathmandu
Seasons
From red tika to oil lamps
दशैं
Dashain
Durga's victory, red tika from the elders, kites on every rooftop.
17 – 25 October9 days →कात्तिकBetween the festivals
Eleven open days in Kartik, with the clearest mountain views of the year.
26 October – 5 November11 days →तिहारTihar
Five days of lamps and marigolds, for crows, dogs, cows, Laxmi and siblings.
6 – 11 November6 days →छठChhath & farewell
The last four days, ending with offerings to the setting sun.
12 – 15 November4 days →Don't miss
How the festivals work →The big days
17OctFulpati · Day 7 of Dashain
Arrival on Fulpati
Fulpati means "flowers and leaves".
21OctVijaya Dashami · Tika dayTika day
This is the most important day of the year for most Nepali families.
25OctKojagrat Purnima · last dayWho is awake?
Dashain ends on the full moon of Kartik.
8NovKukur Tihar & Laxmi PujaDogs in garlands, a city of lamps
In the morning dogs, the guardians of Yama's gate, are given a red tika, a garland and a good meal.
10NovGovardhan Puja · Mha Puja · Nepal Sambat 1147Newar New Year
Govardhan Puja honours Krishna, who lifted a mountain to protect cowherds from a storm.
11NovBhai Tika · Day 5Brothers and sisters
Sisters put a seven-coloured tika on their brothers' foreheads and give them a makhamali garland, which doesn't wilt, as a wish for long life.
Kukur Tihar · 20 Oct 2025
Every dog has its day
On the second day of Tihar, dogs are honoured as the guardians of Yama's gate. They get a red tika, a marigold garland and a good meal, street dogs included. This one sat in a shop doorway in Kathmandu last year, and here it is printed four times, silkscreen style.
Kukur Tihar 2026 is on 8 November →Dashain & Tihar 2025
The whole gallery →Last year, in pictures
I was here for both festivals in 2025. These photos and videos are on the matching days of this year's plan.
Goats for sale on the street, a few days before Ashtami 
Newar musicians with dhime drums and cymbals in Durbar Square on Maha Navami 
Red tika on the forehead, jamara behind the ear 
Dancing on red carpets in the street at the start of Tihar 
Laxmi's red footprints lead past a rangoli to the door 
Cracked walnuts and marigold petals after Bhai Tika, with gift baskets for the brothers
Diary
All 30 days →Latest entries
No entries yet.The first one goes up on 17 October, the day I land. Until then, every day has its plan.
Culture
How to be a good guest during the festivals
- Take tika money and food with your right hand.
- Walk clockwise around stupas and temples.
- Food that has touched someone's lips is jutho, and never shared.
- Around Tika day, expect shops and buses to be closed or full.