0 from 2026 · 35 photos and 12 videos from earlier visits
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17 October – 15 November 2026
This year's diary
No photos from this year yet.They start arriving from Kathmandu on 17 October, the day I land.
2023 – 2025
Dashain and Tihar last year
From 28 September to 23 October 2025, from the goats on the street before Ashtami to the walnuts cracked on Bhai Tika, plus a few earlier visits.
A fresh haircut before Dashain. New clothes and a haircut are part of getting ready 
Goats for sale on the street, a few days before Ashtami 
Onion, chilli and coriander chopped for the Dashain cooking 
Shopping for the Dashain kitchen 
Meat with mustard greens and tomato, a Dashain meal cooked at home 
Dal bhat with cauliflower and potato curry, served on Fulpati 
Young buffaloes marked with red powder in a temple courtyard on Maha Ashtami 
Stalls and temples of Durbar Square on Ashtami night 
Newari snacks and meat curry on Maha Ashtami 
Kal Bhairav at Kathmandu Durbar Square on Maha Ashtami night 
Oil lamps for Kal Bhairav, Maha Ashtami night 
Maha Ashtami night in Kathmandu Durbar Square 
Guardian lions on the temple steps, Ashtami night 
A fresh plate of momos 
Newar musicians with dhime drums and cymbals in Durbar Square on Maha Navami 
Evening worship at a lit shrine on Maha Navami 
Milk tea and leftover meat on the morning of Tika day 
Ready for tika: an oil lamp, tika rice, marigolds and jamara 
A Dashain plate: rice, meat curry, greens, bitter gourd and radish 
Momos with tomato achar 
Red tika on the forehead, jamara behind the ear 
Meat on the grill at a street stall late at night 
Dancing on red carpets in the street at the start of Tihar 
The street dance from above 
Footprints for Laxmi lead from a rangoli of lamps and fruit into a courtyard 
A street dog with a red tika and a marigold garland on Kukur Tihar 
Rangoli with clay diyo lamps and marigolds 
Laxmi's red footprints lead past a rangoli to the door 
Cosmos flowers at dusk 
Laxmi Puja evening by the lake 
A crowded street under paper umbrellas on Govardhan Puja night 
The Annapurna range at dusk, above the Pokhara valley 
Tihar lights and the Annapurnas at dusk 
Cracked walnuts and marigold petals after Bhai Tika, with gift baskets for the brothers 
A gilded temple lit up at dusk in the old town near Asan 
AI illustrationAI-generated illustration of a festival evening. Not a photograph. 
Butter lamps and prayer flags at Boudhanath 
Patan Durbar Square at dusk, with the Krishna Mandir 
A stone elephant guards a temple in Patan Durbar Square 
A walk around Patan Durbar Square at dusk 
A wildflower in the hills after the monsoon 
A tea bush in flower 
Curry, rice and papad for lunch 
Coffee and cake on a rooftop café above Kathmandu 
Evening at Dhalko, on the way from Thamel to Swayambhunath 
A cloth and souvenir shop. The shopkeeper still wears his Dashain tika 
Paan, betel leaf with sweet fillings, served after dinner
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