A short guide for guests
Culture & customs
What to do, what to say and what to eat during a festival month in Kathmandu.
Six things to get right
- 01
Receive with the right hand
Take tika money, food and gifts with your right hand, or both hands for something offered with respect. The left hand is for washing.
- 02
Mind the jutho rule
Don't offer a bite from your plate or drink straight from a shared bottle. Pour water into your mouth without touching the rim.
- 03
Shoes off at thresholds
Remove them before temples, shrines and most homes. Watch what locals do at the door.
- 04
Walk clockwise
Go round stupas, temples and prayer wheels with the monument on your right.
- 05
Ask before photographing
A family puja is private. At sacrifices and cremations, keep a respectful distance.
- 06
Expect closures
Around Tika day, many shops, offices and restaurants close and long-distance buses fill up. Tihar is easier; most places stay open.
A few words of Nepali
People are delighted when a visitor tries. Tap a phrase to hear it, where your browser supports it.
| English | Say | Nepali | When |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hello / goodbye | नमस्ते | With palms pressed together. Works all day. | |
| Thank you | धन्यवाद | Formal. A smile often does the same job. | |
| How much is it? | कति हो? | The start of every bargain. | |
| It's delicious | मीठो छ | The best compliment for a host. | |
| Enough, I'm full | पुग्यो | Say it before your plate is refilled again. | |
| OK / fine | हुन्छ | Agreement, in almost any situation. | |
| Water | पानी | Drink bottled or filtered water. | |
| Happy Dashain | दशैंको शुभकामना | The greeting from 17 to 25 October. | |
| Happy Tihar | तिहारको शुभकामना | The greeting from 6 to 11 November. |
What's on the plate
- दाल भात
Dal bhat
Lentil soup, rice, curry and pickle. Eaten twice a day, with free refills.
- म:म
Momo
Steamed dumplings with a tomato and sesame chutney. The national snack.
- सेल रोटी
Sel roti
Crisp, sweet rings of rice-flour batter, fried for Tihar.
- खसीको मासु
Khasi ko masu
Goat curry, the dish of Dashain.
- छोयला
Choila
Spiced grilled buffalo meat, a Newar favourite.
- जुजु धौ
Juju dhau
Bhaktapur's sweet "king of curds", set in a clay pot.
- चिया
Chiya
Sweet milk tea with spices. Accept a cup when it is offered.
- ठेकुवा
Thekuwa
Sweet fried biscuits made for the Chhath offerings.
It's 2083 in Nepal
Nepal's official calendar is Bikram Sambat, 56 to 57 years ahead of the Western one. The new year starts in mid-April, and months have 29 to 32 days. Festivals follow the moon, which is why their dates move every year. This trip runs from Ashwin 31 to Kartik 29, 2083.
- बैशाखBaisakhApr – May
- जेठJesthaMay – Jun
- असारAsarJun – Jul
- साउनShrawanJul – Aug
- भदौBhadraAug – Sep
- असोजAshwinSep – Oct
- कात्तिकKartikOct – Nov
- मंसिरMangsirNov – Dec
- पुसPoushDec – Jan
- माघMaghJan – Feb
- फागुनFalgunFeb – Mar
- चैतChaitraMar – Apr
Words you'll hear
- Tika टीका
- A mark on the forehead. At Dashain it's red: rice, yogurt and vermilion mixed together.
- Jamara जमरा
- Yellow barley shoots grown in the dark from Ghatasthapana and given with the tika.
- Dakshina दक्षिणा
- A gift of money, given by elders along with the tika.
- Saait साइत
- The auspicious moment for a ritual, set each year by astrologers.
- Changa चङ्गा
- A kite. "Changa chet!" is the shout when you cut someone else's string.
- Linge ping लिङ्गे पिङ
- A tall bamboo swing built for Dashain in villages and city neighbourhoods.
- Diyo दियो
- A small clay oil lamp. Tihar is the festival of lamps.
- Sayapatri सयपत्री
- Marigold. Its name means "hundred petals". Every Tihar garland is made of it.
- Makhamali मखमली
- Globe amaranth, a purple flower that doesn't wilt. Sisters give their brothers garlands of it on Bhai Tika.
- Sel roti सेल रोटी
- A sweet ring of fried rice-flour batter, made in every kitchen at Tihar.
- Deusi / Bhailo देउसी / भैलो
- Groups who sing door to door at Tihar and bless the house in return for money and food.
- Jutho जुठो
- Food or drink that has touched someone's mouth, and so is ritually impure.
- Puja पूजा
- Worship: an offering of flowers, rice, incense and light to a god, at home or at a temple.
- Bahal बहाल
- A Newar courtyard built around a Buddhist shrine, often a former monastery.
- Akash deep आकाशदीप
- Lamps hung high on bamboo poles through the month of Kartik to guide the souls of ancestors.
- Patro पात्रो
- The Nepali calendar. Nepal uses Bikram Sambat, which is 56–57 years ahead of the Western calendar. This trip falls in 2083.